Five weeks in Dublin are not enough for an Irish lass to explore everything the city has to offer, let alone the entire country. Deep history and good company can be found around every corner if you wander along the road less taken. I've seen the beauty of Ireland from the North, South, East and West and have come to cherish every city that keeps the country alive. At Dublin Business School I have consumed as much knowledge as possible of Irelands rich and conflicted history, economy, political landscape, and culture. DBS and Dublin have been my home away from home in so many ways. My experiences in Ireland with stay with me forever... or at least until I can cross the pond once again to return and collect my 100,000 Welcomes.
Eireann Go Bragh
Dublin, Cobh, Cork, Blarney, Bantry, Killarney, Burren, Galway, Belfast, Derry, and everything in between.
Wednesday, July 25, 2012
A Brief Introduction
Five weeks in Dublin are not enough for an Irish lass to explore everything the city has to offer, let alone the entire country. Deep history and good company can be found around every corner if you wander along the road less taken. I've seen the beauty of Ireland from the North, South, East and West and have come to cherish every city that keeps the country alive. At Dublin Business School I have consumed as much knowledge as possible of Irelands rich and conflicted history, economy, political landscape, and culture. DBS and Dublin have been my home away from home in so many ways. My experiences in Ireland with stay with me forever... or at least until I can cross the pond once again to return and collect my 100,000 Welcomes.
The Faddan More Psalter
At the end of a long hallway of artifacts including Bronze Age Metalworking and Music, Iron Age Celtic Art, Viking Art Styles and various other gold hordes is a dark cavern of the National Museum of Ireland. After witnessing the mesmerizing creativity and detail of the previous displays, I was curious what the darkness ahead would contain. Normally, when wandering through museums, the dark rooms hold the most fascinating of historical antiquities. Just beyond the dark entrance is a lighted wall naming the precious artifact within as Saltair an Fheadáin Mhóir, The Faddan More Psalter.
Psalter Cover |
The reasons
of the deposition are unclear and due to its fragile condition conservationists
are working to preserve as much as possible for future examination. Large
areas, including 60% or more have been completely lost, however, making it
difficult to produce further findings on the first Irish manuscript book to be
discovered for over 200 years. But because of its assessed importance, a
complex conservation project has been set in order to extract as much
information as possible about it as treatment progresses.
Psalter Fragment |
Out of all the beautiful and intriguing artifacts that the National Museum of Ireland has to offer, this manuscript immediately plucked at my heartstrings. As part of the recent discovery of my desire to become a book publisher, upon first glance at the fragments of the psalter exhibition, I became obsessed with learning the story behind the finding and preservation of such a magnificent creation.
Guinness and Irish Pub Culture
Entrance to Guinness Factory |
Undeniably, a large part of Irish culture
can be experienced in a pub. It is this fact that makes Ireland famous for its
drinking and pub culture. And what better way to socialize in a pub than over a
pint of Guinness? After all it is a surviving symbol of the legendarily
successful Arthur Guinness born in County Kildare in 1725 and Godson to
Archbishop of Cashel, Reverend Arthur Price. Consequently, it is Archbishop
Price that left Arthur with the £100 needed to sign a 9,000-year lease in 1759 for a disused
brewery at St. James Gate, Dublin. The lease contains water rights, four acres
of land including a copper, a kieve, a mill, two malt houses, a stable for 12
horses, and a loft to hold 200 tons of hay.
And thus, ‘it begins with a
signature.’
9,000-year Lease |
Arthur Guinness |
However, the legacy of Guinness isn’t the
only reason for the popularity of Ireland’s pub life. Pubs in Ireland are a
warm and welcoming spot for tourists and strangers to meet the locals and
explore the local folklore stories, traditional Irish music and dancing, and
all this is free of charge. That is why the approximately 10,000 pubs in
Ireland are visited more than any in the world. Perhaps more fascinating is the
fact that Ireland’s most famous poets, Joyce, Beckett, Wilde, and Behan all wrote stories in which the center is a pub and rumor has it that they sometimes
found inspiration there as well.
I feel very fortunate to have experienced the warmness of the oldest pub in Dublin, The Brazen Head, among many others that the city has to offer. I am usually more of an observer when I am in a new place, because that is the best way to get the true feel for the atmosphere. Pub culture is very different than the 'bar scene' in the United States in that if you are there long enough, you are left with the local people who have grown up with each other and seem to know everyone in the place. Not only that, in the wee hours of the night after a few pints with their lads, you can experience the wonder of traditional Irish music as sung for generations. Ireland's pubs are genuinely like no place else on in the world.
I feel very fortunate to have experienced the warmness of the oldest pub in Dublin, The Brazen Head, among many others that the city has to offer. I am usually more of an observer when I am in a new place, because that is the best way to get the true feel for the atmosphere. Pub culture is very different than the 'bar scene' in the United States in that if you are there long enough, you are left with the local people who have grown up with each other and seem to know everyone in the place. Not only that, in the wee hours of the night after a few pints with their lads, you can experience the wonder of traditional Irish music as sung for generations. Ireland's pubs are genuinely like no place else on in the world.
Parliamentary vs. Presidential Democracy
Republic of Ireland: Parliamentary Democracy, Dublin
Northern Ireland: Parliamentary Democracy, Belfast
United States: Presidential Democracy, Washington, D.C.
Donal and Genevieve at Stormont |
From the
beginning of civilization, nations have organized a governing body to avoid
anarchy and proclaim power over its people. One of the eldest forms of
government is a monarchy, however, modern day politics have moved toward a more
democratic form of government. A democracy gives the nation’s citizens permission
to manage their government either directly or through elected representatives.
There are several different types of democracy, such as the Presidential
democracy in the United States and the Parliamentary Democracy in Ireland.
Stormont, Belfast |
Though
parliament and presidency are both true democracies, their differences lie
mostly in the structure of the legislative offices. The office of the President
characterizes the presidential system in that he/she is both the chief
executive and the head of state. In parliamentary governments, the head of
state and chief executive are two separate offices; the head of state or President functions
as a primarily ceremonial role while the chief executive is the head of
legislature. Perhaps the most significant difference between presidential and
parliamentary systems is that presidents are elected independently of the
legislature, where as the parliamentary chief executive is chosen by the
legislature. The people elect the parliament, the parliament elects the government, including the chief executive, and the government runs the country. A United States president’s power is balanced with the legislative branch of
government. Contrarily, the majority party or a joint decision among majority
parties in parliament chooses a Prime Minister.
President's House, Dublin |
What I found most interesting about the differences in Ireland's Parliament and the United States' government is the term length and election process. The President of Ireland can hold the position for seven years and up to two terms. A U.S. president is also allowed two terms, but for only four years each. In Ireland, the Prime Minister or Taoiseach, has more power than the President and can hold the position for a five year term. The interesting part in my opinion is that in the United States, elections of Congress and the President are permanently set to every two years and four years respectively. However, in Ireland, though the Taoiseach holds his/her position for five years, there can be one or many elections within those five years depending on the majority party. If a majority party becomes a minority party, then there is a re-election at that time even if the five year term is not finished.
Ireland through the eyes of W.B. Yeats
September 1913
William Butler
Yeats
(1865-1939)
(1865-1939)
W.B. Yeats Home in Howth |
What need you, being come to sense,
But fumble in a greasy till
And add the halfpence to the pence
And prayer to shivering prayer, until
You have dried the marrow from the bone;
For men were born to pray and save;
Romantic Ireland's dead and gone,
It's with O'Leary in the grave.
Yet they were of a different kind,
The names that stilled your childish play,
They have gone about the world like wind,
But little time had they to pray
For whom the hangman's rope was spun,
And what, God help us, could they save?
Romantic Ireland's dead and gone,
It's with O'Leary in the grave.
Was it for this the wild geese spread
The grey wing upon every tide;
For this that all that blood was shed,
For this Edward Fitzgerald died,
And Robert Emmet and Wolfe Tone,
All that delirium of the brave?
Romantic Ireland's dead and gone,
It's with O'Leary in the grave.
Yet could we turn the years again,
And call those exiles as they were
In all their loneliness and pain,
You'd cry `Some woman's yellow hair
Has maddened every mother's son':
They weighed so lightly what they gave.
But let them be, they're dead and gone,
They're with O'Leary in the grave.
_________________________________________________________________________________
But fumble in a greasy till
And add the halfpence to the pence
And prayer to shivering prayer, until
You have dried the marrow from the bone;
For men were born to pray and save;
Romantic Ireland's dead and gone,
It's with O'Leary in the grave.
Yet they were of a different kind,
The names that stilled your childish play,
They have gone about the world like wind,
But little time had they to pray
For whom the hangman's rope was spun,
And what, God help us, could they save?
Romantic Ireland's dead and gone,
It's with O'Leary in the grave.
Was it for this the wild geese spread
The grey wing upon every tide;
For this that all that blood was shed,
For this Edward Fitzgerald died,
And Robert Emmet and Wolfe Tone,
All that delirium of the brave?
Romantic Ireland's dead and gone,
It's with O'Leary in the grave.
Yet could we turn the years again,
And call those exiles as they were
In all their loneliness and pain,
You'd cry `Some woman's yellow hair
Has maddened every mother's son':
They weighed so lightly what they gave.
But let them be, they're dead and gone,
They're with O'Leary in the grave.
_________________________________________________________________________________
In 1907,
Sir Hugh Lane’s controversial act of lending his collection of modern French
paintings to the National Gallery in London, stirred W.B. Yeats into writing
five poems which later became his collection, Poems
Written in Discouragement. Perhaps most notably significant and certainly
the most well known of the five is “September 1913.” The poem itself is a
brilliant response to the public controversy surrounding the paintings, originally
intended for placement in Dublin, as well as Yeats’s perception of the then
current state of Ireland.
By way of
background, the paintings were first
offered to Dublin, but were met with public negativity. Being that the
paintings were French, some argued that Irish artists could produce paintings
as magnificent as those of Manet, Degas, and Renoir if they wanted to and could
not justify spending excessively for the temporary exhibition. Yeats, who held
great respect for Sir Lane, thought the public’s response was one of
“provincial complacency and malicious ignorance.” Furthermore, he believed that
this refusal to house a great collection was representative of the newly middle
class’s refusal of culture, education, and art to its place in the Irish
culture. But this was just the
inspiration of the succession of five poems.
“September
1913” transforms Yeats’s views of the Irish mentality and morality and specific
events and issues into a political ballad. The poem marks the change in
Yeats’s political views from an aristocratic idealization of Ireland to a more
revolutionary tone. Majority of the content of the poem is condemning the upper class bourgeois for the hoarding of money in their “greasy till…adding
halfpence to the pence.” By not giving back to the community the aristocratic
upper class has “dried the marrow from the bone” of those in the lower classes. But it is the last two lines
of each stanza that are the most significant, “ Romantic Ireland’s dead and
gone, It’s with O’Leary in the grave.” The lines are used as a pause, or
breaking point to have the reader focus and reflect on the content of the first
six lines. Repetition is significant in that it solidifies Yeats’s views after
each point is made.
From what
we studied in lecture on W.B. Yeats, I had the ignorant idea that all of his
poems would be centered around mysticism and romanticizing Ireland. By
happenstance, I came across “September 1913” after listening to a contemporary
Irish rap compilation in our culture class, which borrows the line “Romantic
Ireland’s dead and gone, It’s with O’Leary in the grave.” I recognized the
line, but thought that it had come from a bleaker poet that we had studied than Yeats. After doing
some research into his later career, I was somewhat shocked to find that he had
completely changed his view of Ireland and no longer romanticized the Irish
country side like so many of his early words did. There is a parallel between “romantic
Ireland is dead and gone” describing not only the events portrayed in the poem,
but also Yeats’s distancing himself from that part of his identity. It is
fascinating how in his early years he struggled so much with identity, always
wanting to be accepted into the landed gentry of his mother’s familial history,
and later strayed as far from that lineage as possible.
The Health of the Irish Economy
To be fully
immersed in the culture of a country, all aspects of life in that country must
be considered. In particular, the economic situation of the country and the
viewpoints of its citizens is what shapes part of an abroad experience. A combination of news articles, observation,
and human contact will elicit the most insightful analysis of a country’s
economic health.
From the
beginning of my matriculation in Dublin Business School, I knew that economics
would be a large part of our studies since economics also has a great impact on
the culture and politics of a country. Being a business major with an intense
interest in the global financial markets, as well as being enrolled in a
business school, I began my understanding of Irish economics early by reading
the business section of The Journal
online. What I gathered from three
articles is as follows:
22 June 2012 – “EIB President would ‘like to sort out the problems that Ireland has’
As part of
the European growth incentives, Finance Minister of the European Investment
Bank, Michael Noonan, met with Irish representatives to discuss ways of making
funding available. The funding would go toward roadway projects, schools, and
community healthcare among other issues on the list.
17 July 2012 – “Governments 2.25 billion euro stimulus plan
hopes to creat 13,000 jobs”
To boost
the Irish economy with the continued EU recession, the government is aiming to
create jobs in the construction sector. Approved programs include school building,
motorway network upgrades, state pathology labs, and upgrades to the Garda
Headquarters, courthouses and health sector.
The National Pension Reserve Fund, investment from the EIB, public
private partnerships, and proceeds from the sale of state assets will fund
majority of these projects. The hope of these projects is gaining economic
independence from the EU-IMF bailout.
19 July 2012 – “Irish economy has stabilised, but more
reform needed”
The
National Competitiveness Council wishes to broaden the tax base and reform the
public sector whilst proclaiming that the Irish economy has stabilised. Future
reforms would encompass policies relating to the labour market, competition
policy, taxation, education and skills in order to relieve the high costs of
the location768. There is a need to reduce enterprise and consumer costs by
focusing on “maximizing competition and removing barriers to competition in
sheltered sectors.”
The CIA
World Fact Book for Ireland states the United States view that growth is
expected to slow in 2012 as a result of the euro-zone debt crisis.
Statistically, unemployment in Ireland is the highest in the EU at 14.4% with
unemployment for youth ages 15-24 at 24.3%. These facts however, do not
coincide with the articles from the previous two months. Analysis of the
articles shows an economy that is on its way to reforming policies to decrease
unemployment while positively affecting the infrastructure of the country. Focus
on education and healthcare along with job creation are prevalent in much of
what is discussed in economic articles on any given day. Although 13,000 jobs
may seem like a lofty goal, it seems as though the governing body of Ireland
recognize the areas of concern and have a clear plan targeting them for reform.
Aside from
factual representation of the Irish government, observation and interaction
with the people of Ireland give a completely different vibe. On any give day
walking along O’Connell or Grafton streets, the major shopping streets, you
will have difficulty picking yourself through the throng of teenagers and
families out purchasing goods. This occurrence is not specific to Dublin; while
in a hotel in Belfast, a group of Irish girls in their teens from the south
were sitting amongst 20-30 shopping bags filled to the brim. It does not seem
to me that a country with expected slowed growth would be able to support this
kind of lifestyle. My observation of the citizens of Ireland as well as
analysis of the final article referencing a stable economy lead me to believe
that the Irish economy is relatively healthy at this point in time. This could be due in part to the economical prices of stores such as Penneys and Dunnes as compared to astronomical prices of some American brands. Additionally, I've noticed that most Irish people only buy what they need when they need it to eliminate waste. For example, the local fruit, vegetable, meat, and fish vendors are visited daily by the city inhabitants to only seem to buy what they need for that day.
Jim Wray, Casualty of Bloody Sunday
Glenfada Park, Derry. 30th January 1972. Sometime after 4:10pm.
As people sheltered in Glenfada Park, away from the carnage on Rossville Street, they were unaware that 4 Paramilitaries were approaching. When these soldiers came into view the crowd attempted to escape. Joe Friel, Daniel Gillespie, Paddy O'Donnell, Michael Quinn, and Joe Mahon were wounded. Four men were shot dead; James Wray, Gerald Donaghy, Gerald McKinney, and William McKinney. Witness accounts say Jim Wray, wounded and defenseless, lay just yards from his grandparents’ home when he was shot for a second time in the back at point blank range.
Photo from Newspaper located in the Museum of Free Derry |
According to British Army evidence 21 soldiers
fired their weapons on 'Bloody Sunday' and shot 108 rounds between them. Two
soldiers were responsible for firing a total 35 bullets. In the area of
Glenfada Park at the time of the shooting, Soldier F fired 13 shots and Soldier
H fired 22 shots. It is known that two of those shots were what wounded and
murdered James “Jim” Wray. Of the two soldiers, the one responsible for firing
the second shot at Jim was highly criticized, as he must have known there was
no justification of shooting a mortally wounded man unable to move.
Jim Wray was 22 years old when he was killed on Bloody Sunday. He was the second oldest in a family of nine and had worked in England for some time, becoming engaged to an Israeli girl he had met there. Outgoing by nature, Jim went to the Castle Bar on a Friday night and the Embassy dance hall on a Saturday. Jim attended the civil rights marches in Derry and the entire family had gone to the march on 30 January after attending Mass together. Jim was shot and wounded in Glenfada Park before being executed as he lay on the ground, unable to move.
In response to a letter sent to the Ulster Volunteer Force by the family of James Wray, the UVF sent a nasty, disheartening reply (pictured above). Showing no mercy for Jim, naming him a ‘terrorist along with his other twelve Rebel friends’ who died that day, the letter is a clear representation of the hatred that the ‘poor soldiers or policemen’ of the UVF felt during siege on Derry that day. Pledging allegiance to the Queen within the close of the letter, the author of this letter illustrates a direct threat to the family who lost their loved one, “get out of your home or be burned out.”
In response to a letter sent to the Ulster Volunteer Force by the family of James Wray, the UVF sent a nasty, disheartening reply (pictured above). Showing no mercy for Jim, naming him a ‘terrorist along with his other twelve Rebel friends’ who died that day, the letter is a clear representation of the hatred that the ‘poor soldiers or policemen’ of the UVF felt during siege on Derry that day. Pledging allegiance to the Queen within the close of the letter, the author of this letter illustrates a direct threat to the family who lost their loved one, “get out of your home or be burned out.”
Museum of Free Derry |
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