Wednesday, July 25, 2012

A Brief Introduction


Five weeks in Dublin are not enough for an Irish lass to explore everything the city has to offer, let alone the entire country. Deep history and good company can be found around every corner if you wander along the road less taken. I've seen the beauty of Ireland from the North, South, East and West and have come to cherish every city that keeps the country alive. At Dublin Business School I have consumed as much knowledge as possible of Irelands rich and conflicted history, economy, political landscape, and culture. DBS and Dublin have been my home away from home in so many ways.  My experiences in Ireland with stay with me forever... or at least until I can cross the pond once again to return and collect my 100,000 Welcomes.















The Faddan More Psalter



At the end of a long hallway of artifacts including Bronze Age Metalworking and Music, Iron Age Celtic Art, Viking Art Styles and various other gold hordes is a dark cavern of the National Museum of Ireland. After witnessing the mesmerizing creativity and detail of the previous displays, I was curious what the darkness ahead would contain. Normally, when wandering through museums, the dark rooms hold the most fascinating of historical antiquities. Just beyond the dark entrance is a lighted wall naming the precious artifact within as Saltair an Fheadáin Mhóir, The Faddan More Psalter.
        
Psalter Cover
         The Psalter, a biblical book of psalms, was found by Mr. Eddie Fogarty in the bog at Faddan More near Birr on the 20th of July 2006. The book fell open upon discovery to show the words ‘ualle lacrimarum,’ Latin for ‘in the valley of tears,’ proclaiming it as a psalter. Examinations of the style of lettering used and yellow border in the psalter date the book back to the eighth century. Ireland, during the eighth century, was enjoying the Golden Age until the first Viking invasion in 795 AD. During the Golden Age, Ireland was termed the “Island of Saints and Scholars’ whose wandering missionaries and teachers were a beacon for the rest of Europe. In this time Irish scribes began reading and copying the great classics of the western civilization, including the Bible. Copies of these manuscripts became known as illuminated manuscripts due to the Irish invention of the page decoration, paragraph, decorated capital letters, and punctuation never before seen in Europe, not even in Rome. It is this detail that makes the books rare and priceless in showing the importance of Ireland in European history. Additionally, its papyrus-lined cover is evidence of contact between Ireland the Mediterranean region making it of international importance. The Faddan More Psalter is one of the few manuscripts along with the Book of Kells to have been preserved from this time period

            The reasons of the deposition are unclear and due to its fragile condition conservationists are working to preserve as much as possible for future examination. Large areas, including 60% or more have been completely lost, however, making it difficult to produce further findings on the first Irish manuscript book to be discovered for over 200 years. But because of its assessed importance, a complex conservation project has been set in order to extract as much information as possible about it as treatment progresses.
Psalter Fragment

            Out of all the beautiful and intriguing artifacts that the National Museum of Ireland has to offer, this manuscript immediately plucked at my heartstrings. As part of the recent discovery of my desire to become a book publisher, upon first glance at the fragments of the psalter exhibition, I became obsessed with learning the story behind the finding and preservation of such a magnificent creation. 

Guinness and Irish Pub Culture


Entrance to Guinness Factory
      Undeniably, a large part of Irish culture can be experienced in a pub. It is this fact that makes Ireland famous for its drinking and pub culture. And what better way to socialize in a pub than over a pint of Guinness? After all it is a surviving symbol of the legendarily successful Arthur Guinness born in County Kildare in 1725 and Godson to Archbishop of Cashel, Reverend Arthur Price. Consequently, it is Archbishop Price that left Arthur with the £100 needed to sign a 9,000-year lease in 1759 for a disused brewery at St. James Gate, Dublin. The lease contains water rights, four acres of land including a copper, a kieve, a mill, two malt houses, a stable for 12 horses, and a loft to hold 200 tons of hay. 

And thus, ‘it begins with a signature.’

9,000-year Lease
Arthur Guinness
      Between 1759 and 1769, Arthur began brewing porter and ale before his first export of six and a half barrels of Guinness on a sailing vessel bound for England. Just over 50 years later, Guinness becomes increasingly known worldwide and by 1840 the first shipment is sent to New York. By 1906, Guinness is home to 3,240 employees equaling to about 10,000 Dubliners or 1 in 30 of the population of Dublin being dependent on the Guinness brewery for their livelihood. Astonishingly, by 1914 the brewery’s output reaches 3 million barrels and just under 100 years later in 2001, the world has drunk two billion pints of Guinness. Finally, in 2009 Guinness celebrated its 250 birthday.

      However, the legacy of Guinness isn’t the only reason for the popularity of Ireland’s pub life. Pubs in Ireland are a warm and welcoming spot for tourists and strangers to meet the locals and explore the local folklore stories, traditional Irish music and dancing, and all this is free of charge. That is why the approximately 10,000 pubs in Ireland are visited more than any in the world. Perhaps more fascinating is the fact that Ireland’s most famous poets, Joyce, Beckett, Wilde, and Behan all wrote stories in which the center is a pub and rumor has it that they sometimes found inspiration there as well. 

    I feel very fortunate to have experienced the warmness of the oldest pub in Dublin, The Brazen Head, among many others that the city has to offer. I am usually more of an observer when I am in a new place, because that is the best way to get the true feel for the atmosphere. Pub culture is very different than the 'bar scene' in the United States in that if you are there long enough, you are left with the local people who have grown up with each other and seem to know everyone in the place. Not only that, in the wee hours of the night after a few pints with their lads, you can experience the wonder of traditional Irish music as sung for generations. Ireland's pubs are genuinely like no place else on in the world. 

Parliamentary vs. Presidential Democracy


Republic of Ireland: Parliamentary Democracy, Dublin
Northern Ireland: Parliamentary Democracy, Belfast
United States: Presidential Democracy, Washington, D.C.


Donal and Genevieve at Stormont

            From the beginning of civilization, nations have organized a governing body to avoid anarchy and proclaim power over its people. One of the eldest forms of government is a monarchy, however, modern day politics have moved toward a more democratic form of government. A democracy gives the nation’s citizens permission to manage their government either directly or through elected representatives. There are several different types of democracy, such as the Presidential democracy in the United States and the Parliamentary Democracy in Ireland.

Stormont, Belfast
         Though parliament and presidency are both true democracies, their differences lie mostly in the structure of the legislative offices. The office of the President characterizes the presidential system in that he/she is both the chief executive and the head of state. In parliamentary governments, the head of state and chief executive are two separate offices; the head of state or President functions as a primarily ceremonial role while the chief executive is the head of legislature. Perhaps the most significant difference between presidential and parliamentary systems is that presidents are elected independently of the legislature, where as the parliamentary chief executive is chosen by the legislature. The people elect the parliament, the parliament elects the government, including the chief executive, and the government runs the country. A United States president’s power is balanced with the legislative branch of government. Contrarily, the majority party or a joint decision among majority parties in parliament chooses a Prime Minister. 


President's House, Dublin
            The United States Presidency is based primarily on the principles stated previously. The island of Ireland, however, is divided into two different nations, the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. Each state has its own distinct parliament, separated by Northern Irelands allegiance to the parliamentary system of the UK. The Republic of Ireland’s exclusive power of law making is placed in the Houses of the Oireachtas in Leinster House, Dublin.  Northern Ireland’s parliament’s power is divided into Ministers and their councils that report to the First Minister and Deputy First Minister, situated in the Stormont building in Belfast. 

        What I found most interesting about the differences in Ireland's Parliament and the United States' government is the term length and election process. The President of Ireland can hold the position for seven years and up to two terms. A U.S. president is also allowed two terms, but for only four years each. In Ireland, the Prime Minister or Taoiseach, has more power than the President and can hold the position for a five year term. The interesting part in my opinion is that in the United States, elections of Congress and the President are permanently set to every two years and four years respectively. However, in Ireland, though the Taoiseach holds his/her position for five years, there can be one or many elections within those five years depending on the majority party. If a majority party becomes a minority party, then there is a re-election at that time even if the five year term is not finished. 
            

Ireland through the eyes of W.B. Yeats


September 1913
William Butler Yeats
(1865-1939)


W.B. Yeats Home in Howth
What need you, being come to sense,
But fumble in a greasy till
And add the halfpence to the pence
And prayer to shivering prayer, until
You have dried the marrow from the bone;
For men were born to pray and save;
Romantic Ireland's dead and gone,
It's with O'Leary in the grave.

Yet they were of a different kind,
The names that stilled your childish play,
They have gone about the world like wind,
But little time had they to pray
For whom the hangman's rope was spun,
And what, God help us, could they save?
Romantic Ireland's dead and gone,
It's with O'Leary in the grave.

Was it for this the wild geese spread
The grey wing upon every tide;
For this that all that blood was shed,
For this Edward Fitzgerald died,
And Robert Emmet and Wolfe Tone,
All that delirium of the brave?
Romantic Ireland's dead and gone,
It's with O'Leary in the grave.

Yet could we turn the years again,
And call those exiles as they were
In all their loneliness and pain,
You'd cry `Some woman's yellow hair
Has maddened every mother's son':
They weighed so lightly what they gave.
But let them be, they're dead and gone,
They're with O'Leary in the grave.



_________________________________________________________________________________
            In 1907, Sir Hugh Lane’s controversial act of lending his collection of modern French paintings to the National Gallery in London, stirred W.B. Yeats into writing five poems which later became his collection, Poems Written in Discouragement. Perhaps most notably significant and certainly the most well known of the five is “September 1913.” The poem itself is a brilliant response to the public controversy surrounding the paintings, originally intended for placement in Dublin, as well as Yeats’s perception of the then current state of Ireland.
            By way of background, the paintings were first offered to Dublin, but were met with public negativity. Being that the paintings were French, some argued that Irish artists could produce paintings as magnificent as those of Manet, Degas, and Renoir if they wanted to and could not justify spending excessively for the temporary exhibition. Yeats, who held great respect for Sir Lane, thought the public’s response was one of “provincial complacency and malicious ignorance.” Furthermore, he believed that this refusal to house a great collection was representative of the newly middle class’s refusal of culture, education, and art to its place in the Irish culture.  But this was just the inspiration of the succession of five poems.
            “September 1913” transforms Yeats’s views of the Irish mentality and morality and specific events and issues into a political ballad. The poem marks the change in Yeats’s political views from an aristocratic idealization of Ireland to a more revolutionary tone. Majority of the content of the poem is condemning the upper class bourgeois for the hoarding of money in their “greasy till…adding halfpence to the pence.” By not giving back to the community the aristocratic upper class has “dried the marrow from the bone” of those in the lower classes. But it is the last two lines of each stanza that are the most significant, “ Romantic Ireland’s dead and gone, It’s with O’Leary in the grave.” The lines are used as a pause, or breaking point to have the reader focus and reflect on the content of the first six lines. Repetition is significant in that it solidifies Yeats’s views after each point is made.
            From what we studied in lecture on W.B. Yeats, I had the ignorant idea that all of his poems would be centered around mysticism and romanticizing Ireland. By happenstance, I came across “September 1913” after listening to a contemporary Irish rap compilation in our culture class, which borrows the line “Romantic Ireland’s dead and gone, It’s with O’Leary in the grave.” I recognized the line, but thought that it had come from a bleaker poet that we had studied than Yeats. After doing some research into his later career, I was somewhat shocked to find that he had completely changed his view of Ireland and no longer romanticized the Irish country side like so many of his early words did. There is a parallel between “romantic Ireland is dead and gone” describing not only the events portrayed in the poem, but also Yeats’s distancing himself from that part of his identity. It is fascinating how in his early years he struggled so much with identity, always wanting to be accepted into the landed gentry of his mother’s familial history, and later strayed as far from that lineage as possible. 

The Health of the Irish Economy


            To be fully immersed in the culture of a country, all aspects of life in that country must be considered. In particular, the economic situation of the country and the viewpoints of its citizens is what shapes part of an abroad experience.  A combination of news articles, observation, and human contact will elicit the most insightful analysis of a country’s economic health.

            From the beginning of my matriculation in Dublin Business School, I knew that economics would be a large part of our studies since economics also has a great impact on the culture and politics of a country.  Being a business major with an intense interest in the global financial markets, as well as being enrolled in a business school, I began my understanding of Irish economics early by reading the business section of The Journal online.  What I gathered from three articles is as follows:


22 June 2012 – “EIB President would ‘like to sort out the problems that Ireland has’

            As part of the European growth incentives, Finance Minister of the European Investment Bank, Michael Noonan, met with Irish representatives to discuss ways of making funding available. The funding would go toward roadway projects, schools, and community healthcare among other issues on the list.

17 July 2012 – “Governments 2.25 billion euro stimulus plan hopes to creat 13,000 jobs”

            To boost the Irish economy with the continued EU recession, the government is aiming to create jobs in the construction sector. Approved programs include school building, motorway network upgrades, state pathology labs, and upgrades to the Garda Headquarters, courthouses and health sector.  The National Pension Reserve Fund, investment from the EIB, public private partnerships, and proceeds from the sale of state assets will fund majority of these projects. The hope of these projects is gaining economic independence from the EU-IMF bailout.

19 July 2012 – “Irish economy has stabilised, but more reform needed”

            The National Competitiveness Council wishes to broaden the tax base and reform the public sector whilst proclaiming that the Irish economy has stabilised. Future reforms would encompass policies relating to the labour market, competition policy, taxation, education and skills in order to relieve the high costs of the location768. There is a need to reduce enterprise and consumer costs by focusing on “maximizing competition and removing barriers to competition in sheltered sectors.”

            The CIA World Fact Book for Ireland states the United States view that growth is expected to slow in 2012 as a result of the euro-zone debt crisis. Statistically, unemployment in Ireland is the highest in the EU at 14.4% with unemployment for youth ages 15-24 at 24.3%. These facts however, do not coincide with the articles from the previous two months. Analysis of the articles shows an economy that is on its way to reforming policies to decrease unemployment while positively affecting the infrastructure of the country. Focus on education and healthcare along with job creation are prevalent in much of what is discussed in economic articles on any given day. Although 13,000 jobs may seem like a lofty goal, it seems as though the governing body of Ireland recognize the areas of concern and have a clear plan targeting them for reform.

            Aside from factual representation of the Irish government, observation and interaction with the people of Ireland give a completely different vibe. On any give day walking along O’Connell or Grafton streets, the major shopping streets, you will have difficulty picking yourself through the throng of teenagers and families out purchasing goods. This occurrence is not specific to Dublin; while in a hotel in Belfast, a group of Irish girls in their teens from the south were sitting amongst 20-30 shopping bags filled to the brim. It does not seem to me that a country with expected slowed growth would be able to support this kind of lifestyle. My observation of the citizens of Ireland as well as analysis of the final article referencing a stable economy lead me to believe that the Irish economy is relatively healthy at this point in time. This could be due in part to the economical prices of stores such as Penneys and Dunnes as compared to astronomical prices of some American brands. Additionally, I've noticed that most Irish people only buy what they need when they need it to eliminate waste. For example, the local fruit, vegetable, meat, and fish vendors are visited daily by the city inhabitants to only seem to buy what they need for that day. 

Jim Wray, Casualty of Bloody Sunday


Glenfada Park, Derry. 30th January 1972. Sometime after 4:10pm.

      As people sheltered in Glenfada Park, away from the carnage on Rossville Street, they were unaware that 4 Paramilitaries were approaching. When these soldiers came into view the crowd attempted to escape. Joe Friel, Daniel Gillespie, Paddy O'Donnell, Michael Quinn, and Joe Mahon were wounded. Four men were shot dead; James Wray, Gerald Donaghy, Gerald McKinney, and William McKinney. Witness accounts say Jim Wray, wounded and defenseless, lay just yards from his grandparents’ home when he was shot for a second time in the back at point blank range.

Photo from Newspaper located in the
Museum of Free Derry
      According to British Army evidence 21 soldiers fired their weapons on 'Bloody Sunday' and shot 108 rounds between them. Two soldiers were responsible for firing a total 35 bullets. In the area of Glenfada Park at the time of the shooting, Soldier F fired 13 shots and Soldier H fired 22 shots. It is known that two of those shots were what wounded and murdered James “Jim” Wray. Of the two soldiers, the one responsible for firing the second shot at Jim was highly criticized, as he must have known there was no justification of shooting a mortally wounded man unable to move.

       Jim Wray was 22 years old when he was killed on Bloody Sunday. He was the second oldest in a family of nine and had worked in England for some time, becoming engaged to an Israeli girl he had met there. Outgoing by nature, Jim went to the Castle Bar on a Friday night and the Embassy dance hall on a Saturday. Jim attended the civil rights marches in Derry and the entire family had gone to the march on 30 January after attending Mass together. Jim was shot and wounded in Glenfada Park before being executed as he lay on the ground, unable to move.

       In response to a letter sent to the Ulster Volunteer Force by the family of James Wray, the UVF sent a nasty, disheartening reply (pictured above). Showing no mercy for Jim, naming him a ‘terrorist along with his other twelve Rebel friends’ who died that day, the letter is a clear representation of the hatred that the ‘poor soldiers or policemen’ of the UVF felt during siege on Derry that day. Pledging allegiance to the Queen within the close of the letter, the author of this letter illustrates a direct threat to the family who lost their loved one, “get out of your home or be burned out.”
Museum of Free Derry
        Sitting in a classroom for two hours over the last four weeks listening to lectures on the Troubles of the North could never evoke the sorrow felt walking through the Museum of Free Derry. The artifacts preserved by the families show the very real and contemporary pain that continues to mar the city of Derry today. Without physically experiencing the depth of destruction of the town, there is no context or emotional connection to the words presented to us on screen during lecture. The educational excursion to Derry really allows one to appreciate the full history that is still very much present in Northern Ireland.